Homemade Bagels

Author & Photographer: Claire Schultz

Oh, the bagel. It seems so simple--a ring of bread, sometimes covered in seeds or onions or cinnamon sugar, usually sliced and smothered in cream cheese. But there is an art to it--the best-kept secret of New York City, the magic of making it perfectly chewy and fluffy and just a little bit malty--that has never been successfully replicated beyond the East Coast. No one knows why, exactly. I’ve heard theories ranging from the water to the lack of cranky Jewish grandparents. No matter where you go, they’re just not the same.

Chicago bagels are fine. I’ve had worse than Einstein’s, and I appreciate bread in any form, but I’m just going to say it: I miss bagels. I grew up in New Jersey, maybe not the home of the perfect bagel, but at least its close cousin. Maybe it’s a principle thing, maybe I’ve just absorbed the persona of the cranky East Coaster--short on black and white cookies and real pizza (sorry deep dish, you’re a fight for another day). I have absolutely been known to come back from break with a suitcase full of bagels to share as a sort of black-market currency to those in the know.

A few summers ago, sweaty and homesick and bored, I decided to do something about my kvetching and teach myself how to make a proper bagel. I tested a few recipes before finding my favorite, which I’ve adapted from a combination of recipes from Epicurious and King Arthur Flour.

It wasn’t quite the same as the ones I remembered from home, but nothing could be. It was, however, delicious and comforting and deeply satisfying. In times of stress, I find nothing more fulfilling than making bread, kneading dough, smelling the yeast waft through the kitchen as it rises. I’m stuck inside with my parents now, blocks away from the bagels of my childhood but unable to get them, and--whiling away the days playing Animal Crossing--I’ve gotten antsy. In need of a project, I’ve decided to break out my old bagel recipe. And it is a project: although none of the steps are particularly hard, there are a lot of them--two rises, shaping, boiling, baking. Don’t be scared, though; it’s incredibly doable, and the more time you spend in the kitchen and not wallowing in quarantine madness, the better. Besides, when you’ve finished, you’ll be able to brag about them to all of your friends over Zoom.

The recipe makes about eight to twelve bagels, depending on the size. You can share, if you’re feeling generous, but I won’t blame you for hoarding your stash all for yourself. I know I’m stress-eating carbs right now; do what you need to do to cope.

Servings: 8-12 bagels

Preparation Time: about 3 hours

Cook Time: 20-25 minutes

Ingredients:

For the dough:

1 packet yeast (about 2 ¼ tsp)
1 tbsp honey
1 ½ cups lukewarm water
4 cups flour (all-purpose or bread)
2 tsp salt

For the poaching liquid:

2 qts water
1-2 tbsp honey
1 tbsp baking soda
1 tsp salt

Instructions:

Stir the yeast and honey into the lukewarm water and let sit until foamy, about 5 minutes.
Combine the flour, salt, and water/yeast mixture in a large mixing bowl and knead (by hand or with a dough hook) for about 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and pretty stiff.
Form the dough into a ball, return it to a lightly oiled bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let it rise for 60-90 minutes.
On a work surface, divide the dough into 8-12 pieces. One at a time, roll each piece into a log about 8” long. Cupping one end in your palm, wrap the log around the back of your hand to make ends meet, and seal by shutting your fingers. Roll the bagel around your hand a bit to even it out; dampen the seam with a little water if it won’t close.
Transfer the finished bagels to parchment-lined, greased baking sheets, and loosely cover with plastic wrap. Let rise for about another hour.
While the bagels are rising, bring the water, honey, baking soda, and salt to a boil in a large pan. This is also a good time to preheat your oven to 450 F.
To tell if your bagels are ready to boil, place one in a bowl of water. If it floats, you’re good to go. If not, return it to the tray and let rise for a few more minutes, then try again.
When they’re ready, boil the bagels in batches, careful not to overcrowd the pan. Boil each bagel for 1 minute, flip, and boil 1 minute more. Remove them with a spatula or slotted spoon and place back on the tray.
Bake for 20-25 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. (If they’re getting too brown, you can flip them over and finish baking.) When the bagels are golden brown, remove them from the oven and let cool.

Adapted from: https://www.kingarthurflour.com/recipes/bagels-recipe and https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/bagels-366757