Proxi Review

By: Caroline Zhao

The bustling neighborhood of the West Loop can sometimes feel overwhelmed with fine dining options. With so many incredible restaurants to choose from, some establishments slip through the cracks when compared with their high profile neighbors. This is not the case for Proxi, however. The minimalistic establishment of incredible culinary innovation stands out, despite being surrounded by similarly well acclaimed Chicago restaurant classics such as Alla Vita, avec, and Sepia. Chef Andrew Zimmerman breathes his passions for travel and cooking into the entire menu, blending great flavors from around the world into intricate, thoughtfully crafted small dishes. This personal touch elevates Proxi, enhancing the already delicious and masterful food.

The dimly-lit interior of Proxi creates an ambiance that strikes a perfect balance between elegance and comfort. The element of an open kitchen invites dining patrons along a special culinary adventure around the globe. Paired with a geometric motif, Proxi demonstrates sophistication and simplicity and at the same time, simulating a comforting yet exceptional experience.

I was lucky to taste a large portion of Proxi’s menu, as I dined with a large party. Inspired by flavors from Asia, India, and Mexico, the menu remains grounded in accessibility for those who may be unfamiliar with the cuisines of these regions Each dish on the menu is a skillfully crafted mosaic of flavors, textures, and aromas, pulling from a vast variety of ingredients from around the world. I have never been to a restaurant with more attention to detail—each dish was plated perfectly and garnished with intention.

We started the experience with cocktails: Emerald Sky, Temporary Joy, and Heir Apparent. The drinks were vibrant and colorful, introducing the night with fun and flavor. The Temporary Joy stood out with its combination of mezcal, Martini & Rossi Fiero, Select Apertivo, thai basil, and lemon. It was a sweet and smoky drink, reminiscent of an Aperol Spritz yet with a multidimensional feel; it was a more smoky rather than bitter comparison.

As for food, my group ordered almost the entirety of the a la carte menu. There are only two categories on the menu: mains and sides. Proxi also offers a Chef’s Menu, which allows people to order from a preselected menu with four courses.

Starters

We started off with a couple of small dishes and sides: the Hawaiian Rolls & Chili Jam Butter, Red Curry Lentil Dip, and Banh Knot. They were light, shareable dishes that kicked off the rollercoaster of food fusion we were about to embark on. Each had delightful flavor combinations that weren’t too overpowering or overwhelming. I was not expecting the wide range of food represented in these dishes, but enjoyed the spread of naan, hawaiian rolls, and lentil dip. These each checked all of the boxes and met my expectations for great appetizers.

After these lighter dishes were three great intermediaries, the Vegetable and Paneer Kofta, the Wood Roasted Mushrooms, and the Charred Napa Cabbage. While the textures of the previous dishes were wonderful, these three vegetable dishes took it up another notch. In particular, the textures in the Charred Napa Cabbage were phenomenal. The cabbage was charred and blackened in a couple of places, and plated with small crispy pieces of rice. The mushrooms were made with Uncle Floyd’s creamy upma and black mustard seed butter, making for an indulgent vegetable. Again, they were simple dishes, yet perfectly flavorful and diverse in their tastes. The kofta was my favorite out of these; it was so smooth in texture and had a spicy kick that made the dish overall comforting and flavorful.

Now, for the highlight of the meal—bigger dishes that featured more refined foods. Although preceded by dishes that could do no wrong, the meal was elevated once more with the Adopo Grilled Octopus, Scallop Motoyaki, Banana Leaf Wrapped Bass, Tepache Braised Pork Belly, and Grilled New York Strip Steak. These truly blew me away. I truly could rave about each of these. It was clear that each dish was made of the finest ingredients, an uncommon culinary expertise, and the highest level of detail. I am not exaggerating when I say that each dish melted in my mouth. As always, each was decorated with elaborate little herbs and inspired deeply by different Asian cultures.

Finally, it was time for dessert. At this point, I really wasn’t sure if anything could top what I had just eaten. But of course, dinner is not complete without dessert, especially at a place like Proxi that had already wowed. We ordered the Roasted Kabocha Squash Sorbet and Winter Citrus Kakigori. The squash sorbet was surprisingly amazing. I was extremely hesitant at first, but a perfect balance between sweetness and squash taste was achieved. Honestly, this should be a more common pairing. The quality of this dessert is a testament to Proxi’s successful experimentation. Speaking of experiments, unfortunately the kakigori was not my favorite…or anyone else’s. It was an ambitious mixture of flavors and textures, none of which resulted in anything very delicious. This was the only thing that disappointed me. I appreciate the vision, but it just wasn’t for me.

Conclusion

Proxi was amazing, in terms of the food, ambience, and experience. I recommend going with the goal to taste as much of the menu as possible. It’s not the best for big groups, as the plates are small, but even sharing a few bites of each dish was extremely enjoyable. The must haves? The Scallop Motoyai were the best scallops I have ever tasted. Other great dishes were the Adopo Grilled Octopus, Tepache Braised Pork Belly, Vegetable and Paneer Kofta, the Red Curry Lentil Dip, and the Squash Sorbet.

I haven’t been to a place with such an ambitious (and successful) take on fusion cuisine. Proxi took risks at times, and most of the time, they were absolutely successful. Whether you’re a fan of all of these different cuisines or not, Proxi promises an extraordinary culinary adventure that will leave you eager to return.