Words on Curds #7

Olivia Rae Okun-Dubitsky

Hello all, and welcome back to another year of Words on Curds! As a reminder for old readers and an introduction to new readers, my name is Olivia Rae, and I’m a second-year student who used to make cheese on a farm.

The most common follow-up question I get when I tell people this is: where are you from? My answer is New Jersey. The photo above is not in the French Alps or a farm in the Netherlands; it was taken in good old New Jersey, the lovely “armpit of the country.” So yes, amazing cheese can be made all over the country and certainly can be made all over the world.

A snapshot of a day in the life on the farm

But when college students think about cheese, they probably think about familiar products like European cheeses imported to the U.S.: your Trader Joe’s feta or whatever cheddar Target has on sale. However, the world of cheese is wide, and there are both traditional and modern cheeses that are made outside of Europe. For the first Words on Curds of 2024, I want to highlight some of these unique and underappreciated non-European cheeses.

Eleftheria Brunost

Eleftheria Brunost, an Indian cheese, won fourth place at the World Cheese Awards. Inspired by Norwegian Brunost cheese, Eleftheria Brunost comes from cheesemakers at Eleftheria, located in Mumbai, India. According to Vivanda Gourmet, “Originating in Norway, Brunost, or brown cheese, is created by heating leftover cheesemaking whey until the milk sugars caramelize and the whey reaches a fudge-like consistency.” The cheese is traditionally eaten with breakfast foods like waffles and toast. Brunost is a uniquely sweet cheese and is not typically found outside of Norway. Not only is Eleftheria’s Brunost a rare international production of Brunost, but it is the first cheese from India that has been a finalist for the World Cheese Awards. The founder of Eleftheria, Mausam Narang, started the company in 2015 and stated that, “The artisanal cheese industry is still in its nascent stages in India.” With this award under their belt, perhaps we will see more award-winning cheeses from Indian cheesemakers.

Shanklish

Shanklish is a type of cheese that originates from the Levant, ranging from mild and creamy fresh versions to tangier and harder aged versions. Curdled yogurt undergoes a process of straining and fermentation, after which it is formed into small balls and covered in spices like thyme, za’atar, and Aleppo pepper. These balls are then aged and dried before being enjoyed in a meze spread or served mashed up with eggs. This fragrant cheese has a soft texture that makes it a staple in Levantine cuisine.

Sakura Cheese

Kyodo Gakusha Shintoku Farm in Hokkaido, Japan, has been recognized as the creator of Sakura cheese. Cheesemaker Nozomi Miyajima started the farm in 1978 with the goal of steering away from American industrial dairy and instead build a small farm with efficient energy production. The best known of Miyajima’s cheeses is the Sakura, or cherry blossom, cheese, which has a sakura leaf on top. With its first place win at the Mountain Cheese Olympics in 2004, this soft cow’s milk cheese became an instant international favorite. Miyajima stated, “The first reason why this cheese was awarded the prize was that it was made in nature, and the second was the touch of Japanese-ness it had.” Japan has soft water and microorganisms that Europe does not, which affects the flavor and texture of the milk and, subsequently, the cheese. The cheesemaker added, “ It was a great encouragement for me to see a uniquely Japanese taste, not a copy of the European taste, acknowledged by Europe, the traditional land of cheese making."

Wagashi

Wagashi is a cow’s milk cheese hailing from West Africa and is especially popular in Northern Benin. It is mild in flavor and has a red rind created from the process of dipping the cheese in the extract from a plant native to North Africa. Wagashi is traditionally prepared by the Fulani people and is known for its high melting point, allowing it to maintain its textural integrity throughout the cooking process. Somewhat like a less salty halloumi, waagashi is often fried or cooked in sauces; for example, it is often eaten as a snack with pepper paste.

Some Parting Thoughts

While cheesemaking is perhaps most prolific in Europe, non-European cheeses are equally delicious and deserving of praise and awards (which they clearly receive!). Examining these local products sheds light on the role of importation. In the U.S., many cheeses we consume are produced domestically, including uniquely American creations, like monterey jack, or European cheeses that can be made in the U.S.,like brie. We are lucky to have more locally sourced cheeses, as consuming domestic products as opposed to imports lowers our carbon footprint and lets us experience local microorganisms. We also gain the potential to support local artisans. 

I hope the rise of artisanal cheese in other countries is a sign of the times. Seeing non-European cheeses being imported into the U.S. is an exciting development in the cheesemaking community. Whether it is newer cheeses like sakura cheese or centuries-old cheese like shanklish, there is a beautiful world of cheese out there for us to explore. 

Hope you can try some of these un-brie-lievably unique and delicious cheeses!