Author and Photographer: Zachary Sarmoen

I am always on the lookout for the best Kosher foods in any city that I visit, and especially in the places I live.While searching for the best spots here in Chicago, I was told I had to try Milt’s, a Glatt Kosher, dairy-free, and peanut and tree nut-free (as well as having gluten-free and celiac-friendly options) barbeque restaurant located at 3411 N Broadway, Chicago, IL 60657. Milt’s only opened a decade ago, but it has already become a staple in Lakeview, with decadent eats ranging from smoked brisket empanadas to char-burgers Milt’s way—topped with brisket chili, “bacon,” crispy onion, and bbq aioli.

Having heard many shining reviews, I had to check it out myself. When I first entered the restaurant, the atmosphere was very welcoming and relaxed, with multiple TVs broadcasting the sports games, a well-decorated bar, and many families eating dinner. My party was seated quickly and almost immediately served with complementary pickles. You may expect a restaurant to serve bread and butter, but at Milt’s, you get bread and butter pickles. Normally, I like my pickles sour, but these pickles had just the right amount of spice to counteract the sweetness, and they had me excited to try the rest of the food.

I went to Milt’s with three friends of mine, and we decided to share the brisket chili nachos and an order of buffalo wings as starters. The brisket chili nachos were honestly one of the best appetizers I have ever eaten. In fact, I would not fault anyone for ordering these as their sole meal. The chips were clearly fresh out of the fryer, as they were warm and crispy, holding their shape well, even when covered in chili. The fact that the chips did not become soggy at all is a testament to how fresh the food was. The chili itself was well seasoned with just a little bit of kick to it and loads of brisket bits. The brisket was super tender, which provided a great texture contrast with the chips, yet I do wish the chili was a bit spicier. The nachos also came topped with guacamole, tomatoes, and a non-dairy sour cream, all of which helped bring some much-needed freshness to the dish. The cold temperatures, in contrast to the chips and chili, of the guacamole and sour cream were their biggest benefit, especially as the sour cream was missing some of its classic flavors. Regardless, the dish came together really well with the contrasts of textures and temperatures and an overall well-flavored plate, and even more impressively, it was a large portion for $20 and there was chili on every single bite. My friends and I finished the nachos with ease and would definitely order again.

Next came the buffalo wings, with eight (we got a lucky ninth wing) wings for $14. This was a bit expensive for the portion, but the taste was worth it. A quick lesson on Kosher meat: chicken must not be soaked in hot water before being defeathered as this would be considered cooking the meat before it has been fully made Kosher, meaning that Kosher chicken wings tend to be a little more feathery than non-Kosher wings. With that said, these feathers can be taken off without much of an issue during the actual cooking process when properly fried or cooked over a grill. Milt’s fried their wings to perfection, without a feather in sight. The wings were not only well fried, but the flavor was on point as well. They were extremely crispy and coated in a buffalo sauce that had, what I consider to be, the desired mix of spicy and tangy. Served on the side were some carrots and celery—the classics—and non-dairy ranch. The ranch itself was very flavorful, with a strong garlic flavor, but it was noticeably less refreshing than regular ranch seems to be, possibly due to the lack of dairy. The wings are also on my order-again list, and they received the stamp of approval from my non-Kosher friends as well.

After enjoying our appetizers, my friends and I went on to order the main dishes. My friends all ordered the brisket sandwich, while I opted for the rib sandwich. Each came with the option of either fries or coleslaw, and the coleslaw could be prepared creamy or with vinegar, a customization option that I have never been offered before. I opted for the vinegar-based coleslaw, while my friends ordered the fries. Before I delve into the entrees, I want to note the quality of the service that was offered to my friends and me at Milt’s. The drinks and food came out quickly, we were checked on numerous times, the waiter made it clear that he could accommodate to most dietary restrictions if we had any, and we were even served multiple complementary sides of the house sauces: a smoky barbecue sauce (bottom), a spicy mustard (middle), and a sweet and spicy sauce (top). All of the sauces were not only extremely flavorful but also unique and made in-house. I recommend trying all three together on your sandwiches (not that any of the meat lacks any tenderness or juiciness) or fries; I personally lined them up on my plate in a row and then dipped my sandwich into them, and it was delicious.

The rib sandwich consisted of 8-hour smoked rib meat, sauteed onions, and bell peppers, topped with a BBQ aioli on a toasted hoagie roll. The first thing to note about this sandwich is that it was huge. Not only was it a decent length, but there was a significant amount of rib meat in the sandwich, creating a very good ratio of bread to meat. This alone made the sandwich worth its $24 price tag; the amazing flavor was an added bonus. The meat was incredibly tender and had contrasting flavors of spicy and sweet from the barbecue sauce. I enjoyed the barbecue sauce that the meat was cooked in, as it was not overwhelmingly sweet and did not overpower the meat. Additionally, the bread held up really well, since it did not get very soggy despite the large quantity of juicy rib meat on it. However, while the sandwich was spectacular, I found the coleslaw to be a bit lackluster. I chose it to have something a bit lighter, which it was, but it was lacking flavor, and despite being light, it was not very refreshing. I think it was my mistake for ordering the vinegar-based slaw, so I will definitely be trying the creamy slaw next time. But, for a safe option, go with the fries. They were crispy and well-seasoned.

Speaking of the fries, I did try some of the food from my friends’ orders. Not only were their fries spot on, but their brisket sandwiches were delicious too. They all said the smoked brisket and pretzel bun sandwich was worth the $18 cost, and when I tried a bite, I could not help but agree. This sandwich is the staff favorite and even comes with the option for double meat for a $14 upcharge. This sandwich is simple without additional toppings, so unlike the rib sandwich, I do think additional sauces are needed. Luckily, there are three complementary options. The meat itself was tender and juicy, with just the right amount of bite to it for a favorable texture. It also had good flavor, despite potentially requiring additional flavor from the sauces. All three sauces pair well, but the smoky barbecue is definitely the best match for this sandwich. With a good soft pretzel bun and a large heaping of tender brisket, it is no surprise that this sandwich was a hit at my dinner table.

Conclusions

If you get a chance, check Milt’s out, but make sure to plan ahead, as they are closed on Friday nights and Saturdays for Shabbat, and they require a credit card to be put down for reservations. Milt’s is unlike any Kosher restaurant I have been to before, and it certainly does justice to the barbecue food name. The atmosphere is comforting and modern, the service is amazing, and the food is both flavorful and large-portioned. If I had to pick just one bite to recommend, I would go with the brisket chili nachos, but there do not appear to be any wrong choices. In my opinion, Milt’s Barbecue for the Perplexed is a must-try.