On Dumplings: A Recipe, Review, and Reflection
Author and Photographer: Olivia Shanler
Background
If there is one food that I have always wanted to execute perfectly, it would be dumplings. I have always loved dumplings but struggled with the process of actually making them. I always fail at folding them, causing any dumplings I boil to explode in the pot, or when I steam them, they do not fully cook. My dilemma is further complicated by the sheer variety of dumplings that exist. I have yet to master a single recipe, constantly attempting new variations: should I boil, steam, or fry the dumplings? Should they be made with pork, crab, chicken, or a combination of proteins? What complex folding shape should I attempt, and should the dumplings be served with a dipping sauce? More often than not, I end up just heating up frozen dumplings from my local H-Mart, or getting dim sum with family and friends instead. Fortunately, I received a veritable masterclass in the art of dumpling-making from a friend whose parents owned a Chinese restaurant. She lent me her family recipe for pork, chive, and egg dumplings that are boiled and served with a sweet and savory dipping sauce. This new experience was sure to be challenging, but I was excited at the prospect of finally being able to create dumplings that were both adequately attractive and tasty.
Exemplar Dumplings
Starting the Process
With one quick trip to H-mart and the recruitment of 2 other friends (more hands to fold dumplings) later, I was ready to begin the recipe. Dumplings are simple yet deceptively difficult to make, and to create the perfect dumpling, there are many details that will distinguish a good dumpling from a great one. I bought a pack of pre-made wrappers from H-mart because I simply did not feel like making my own. The premade wrappers are made of simple ingredients, and are uniformly thin and delicate, making them easy to use. The next component was ground pork, which I also did not grind myself. I intended to save myself time for the next ingredient, which was the chive. I bought an extremely large bunch of chives, and I purchased the flat kind. I then spent the next 30 minutes of my life chopping the entire bunch of chives finely, and then tossed them in a small amount of baking soda. This ensured that they kept their beautiful green color through the cooking process (we are making restaurant quality dumplings here, people!) and would help them evenly distribute through the dumpling filling mixture. The final primary ingredient, the egg, was delightfully easy to prepare. I cracked 6 eggs into a bowl and beat them with a pair of chopsticks until they became fluffy and lighter in color. I scrambled the eggs in sesame oil to lend them a savory flavor. I cooked them until they were fluffy, but not wet in texture and set them aside. My next task was to season the pork with various sauces. I added oyster sauce for sweetness, sesame oil for savory flavor, soy sauce to compliment the fattiness of the pork, white pepper for more savory flavor, and minced fresh ginger and garlic for freshness. I added these ingredients to a large bowl that contained my ground pork, and then added my chives. I then mixed these together 100 times clockwise with a pair of large chopsticks. I was not quite sure why I was doing this but was then informed that mixing the filling in one direction manipulates the proteins in the pork, both tenderizing it and incorporating all of the seasoning whilealso elevating the quality of the dumpling once it is cooked. The mixing creates a bite that does not fall apart, which creates a tender and juicy filling that is easy to eat when one bites into the cooked dumpling. Finally, the preparation of the dumpling filling was complete.
Then came the step in the recipe I was most nervous about: the folding. As I previously mentioned, I have had little success in folding boiled dumplings. I was not excited about the prospect of having my dumplings, which I had spent about a full hour preparing (excluding the folding) , become inedible in the cooking process. Fortunately, my friends and I became dumpling-folding experts after a FaceTime with the creators of this family recipe. I began by placing 1 dumpling wrapper delicately in the palm of my hand. I then used my finger to place some warm water on the perimeter of the wrapper, which will aid in the sealing process. I placed a tablespoon-sized dollop of dumpling filling into the center of the wrapper, pushed the “corners” of the wrapper in towards the center of the dumpling, and finally used my fingers to close the wrappers to create a pleat. At first, my dumplings were not very attractive. However, after trial and error, I began to achieve folded dumplings that looked more like dumplings rather than unattractive lumps. My friends and I also began to experiment with dumpling shapes (with varying degrees of success). Making shapes similar to those of pierogies worked, as well as using a fork to seal the edges of the dumplings. We experimented with more unique shapes, like circular pouches, and even attempted to recreate the iconic shape of an Uncrustable (which miraculously survived the boiling process). Once I neared the end of the folding process, I took the largest pot of water I could find and filled it mostly with water, bringing it up to a boil. Finally, I could begin the dreaded boiling process.
Final Stages of Folding
Final Stretch
I placed about 5-6 dumplings into the pot at a time to avoid them clumping together while boiling. It took roughly 3 minutes for the dumplings to rise from the bottom of the pot to the surface, and once they did, I took a glass measuring cup filled with cold water and poured it over the dumplings (again, I am not sure why I did this, but I wanted to stay as true to the original instructions as possible). I then used a slotted spoon to remove the dumplings from the water and placed them onto a serving tray. Finally, after I repeated this process until all of the dumplings were cooked, I prepared a quick mixture of soy sauce, crispy chili oil, and sesame seeds, along with more chives, to serve with the dumplings.
I was excited to try the dumplings, as it had taken roughly 3 full hours to prepare the ingredients, fold the dumplings, and cook them all. As I bit into the first dumpling, I was immediately impressed. The wrapper was delicate and thin, and the meat filling was savory, juicy, and flavorful. This was a deeply comforting bite, and I could taste all of the simple ingredients. These dumplings were delicious, and I could taste all of the work and love that went into creating them. The chives were perfectly fine and bright green (thank you, baking soda), the succulent ball of filling held its shape and tenderness, and the scrambled egg added variety in texture and a savory flavor to the dumpling. The spicy, salty dipping sauce paired well with the dumplings, and overall, these dumplings made the perfect meal. Although they still did not turn out perfectly, they were a labor of love, and I would definitely make them again. Completing the recipe gave me a new perspective on dumplings themselves, and I will always hold an appreciation for the amount of work required to produce them. I will never take my frozen, premade dumplings for granted again. Despite the laborious process, I believe that with the right determination (and supervision), anyone can attempt making dumplings, and create something delicious, even if it does not look perfect. Not to mention, the beauty of this process was its room for creativity — if you have read up to this point, you may notice I have not included a true recipe with measurements. I found through this process that a delicious dumpling can take unexpected forms and that it is important to have fun and experiment with ingredients and measurements, as the personality of a dumpling is determined by the preferences of its creator. Making dumplings is not a scientific process, and many people have different preferences for their dumplings. The best dumplings are created by people experimenting and innovating and trying new things without caring if the end result is perfect or not. It seems that there are many lessons to be learned when cooking the humble dumpling.
Dumpling Dinner