Author and Photographer: Zachary Rothstein

What is Ghormeh Sabzi?

I grew up attending services at an Eidot Mizrach synagogue. As opposed to Ashkenazi Jews, who trace their roots to Europe, Mizrachi Jews translate literally to “Jews of the East.” Many of these communities were located in the Middle East, and a sizable portion of these Jews lived in Iran. One of the couples who were members of the synagogue owned a small kosher Iranian restaurant on Long Island. Each week, they would graciously sponsor a lunch that featured a large spread of Iranian-Jewish dishes. My favorite food: Ghormeh Sabzi paired with Tahdeeg.

Ghormeh Sabzi is a traditional Persian stew made with a number of herbs, kidney beans, and lamb stew meat. Dried limes are then introduced into this rich, fragrant stew to add subtle hints of freshness. The turmeric-infused sauteed onions also add complexity to the flavor of the dish. While the dark green stew may not be the most photogenic food, the well-balanced and flavorful dish is one of my favorites.

A well-prepared Ghromeh Sabzi exemplifies the principles of “Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat” that Samin Nosrat –– a chef with Persian roots herself –– emphasizes in her cookbook and miniseries, also named “Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat.”

How to Prepare

The perfect execution of Ghormeh Sabzi takes hours and begins with the salting of the stew meat. I salted the beef stew meat ––– although traditionally one should use lamb ––– around 8 hours in advance. Salting the meat early gives the salt a chance to be absorbed into the meat through osmosis. This helps the meat retain water, which will prevent it from drying out. This will also help the meat remain tender. The Ghormeh Sabzi that you see me enjoying with my friends included pieces of stew meat so tender that they dissolved in my mouth.

Fat also plays a crucial role in forming this dish. Firstly, olive oil provides the essential medium of heat for sauteing the rehydrated herbs as well as the turmeric-infused onions with the stew meat. Further, the fat that melts off the stew meat gives added richness to what is otherwise a light and healthy stew. While fat is not the dominant element of this dish, it certainly contributes to balancing out the lighter and fresher components of the stew.

The addition of dried Omani limes to the Ghormeh Sabzi adds unparalleled freshness and flavor.. Removing the limes right before they begin to taste bitter allows the fresh citrusy flavor to permeate throughout the stew. That “zing” of freshness I felt when the flavor of the lime appeared after a bit of meat or a spoonful of kidney beans balanced out some of the heavier portions of the dish. I really enjoy the contribution of the limes, so I added a couple more over the recommended 7 or 8 limes that the recipe demanded. This may have been too zesty for some, but the zest is my favorite portion of the dish.

Heat is arguably the star of Ghormeh Sabzi’s show. A good Ghormeh Sabzi should be left on low heat for up to 4 hours. I left mine on the stove for around 3 hours. The time on the heat gives all of the fragrances and flavors of the stew time to get to know each other. Heat deepens the flavors and allows them to mix cohesively. Further, the liquid nature of Ghormeh Sabzi means the stew can never rise above 220 degrees Fahrenheit, which allows any collagen in the stew meat to break down into gelatin, resulting in pieces of meat so tender that they simply dissolve in the mouth.

How to Eat

Ghormeh Sabzi does not like to be eaten alone, and typically, one eats Ghormeh Sabzi atop some sort of rice dish. I attempted to make Tahdig, which is a scorched rice dish. One makes Tahdig by parboiling rice in a significant amount of saltwater. The salt helps preserve the rice’s shape and prevents the rice from clumping. Then, one pours either clarified butter or a high-smoke point oil, such as canola oil, into the bottom of a non-stick pot. I had some saffron in the pantry, so I also poured some saffron-infused water into the pot. Then, I poured my rice in and shaped it into a mountain with its peak in the center. I also poked holes to allow the rice on the bottom of the pot to steam. I let this shallow fry for around 35 minutes before executing a flip. This flip caused me great anxiety, but sitting on my plate was the rice loaf below. The heavy fried rice pairs especially well with the light, zesty flavors of the Ghormeh Sabzi.

The flavors of the Ghormeh Sabzi I prepared transported me back to the synagogue I attended growing up. The perfect combination of “Salt, Fat, Acid and Heat” create a well-balanced and flavorful dish. Without further adieu, here is how I made the Ghormeh Sabzi:

Ingredients

2 Cups of Diced Onions
2 Tablespoons of Turmeric
1.5 lbs. of Stew Meat
2 Cans of Dried Sadaf Ghormeh Sabzi Herb Mix (dried fenugreek, parsley, and leek)
16 oz of Dried Kidney Beans
1 Bunch of Fresh Parsley
1 Bunch of Fresh Green Onions
7 or 8 Sadaf Omani Dried Limes
2 to 3 tablespoons Olive Oil and Canola Oil for Sauteing
Salt and Pepper to Taste

Instructions

A few hours before you begin, apply a generous layer of salt to all sides of the stew meat and allow it to rest for a few hours.
In a bowl, soak the red kidney beans in cold water for four to five hours. However, if you forget this step, you can either use canned kidney beans or you can elect to cook the kidney beans in the stew without soaking (but beware that this may take more time).
In a large mixing bowl, submerge the 2 cans of dried herb mix in cold water for at least ten minutes or until rehydrated. Strain any excess water and place it to the side.
Heat up the olive oil in a frying pan or skillet for sauteing. Then, pour in your diced onions and stir occasionally to prevent burning. Once the onions are slightly brown (after about 10 minutes), stir in the turmeric and continue to saute the mixture for another minute. Then, place the meat into the frying pan and flip the meat continuously until lightly browned on all sides.
Pour 2-3 tablespoons of canola oil into a frying pan and place the rehydrated herb mixture along with some fresh chopped parsley and green onions into the frying pan. Saute for around 10 to 15 minutes, or until the herbs turn a much darker shade of green. Allow it to rest while the meat finishes sauteing. Salt and pepper to taste, remembering to add slightly more salt and pepper since the salt will diffuse throughout the stew.
Then, combine the sauteed herbs, the meat, onions, the soaked beans, and 6 cups of water (or chicken or beef broth, if available) into a large pot. Also place the dried limes into the pot. Add some salt and pepper to taste.
Allow the pot to simmer over low heat for 3 to 4 hours, adding some water in if the stew begins to boil. heat accordingly.
Serve over steamed rice or Tahdig. Enjoy!