Itoko Review
Joyce Lu
Photos: Karina Mak
Itoko, by executive chef Gene Kato of the beloved Momotaro, opened this past March and has taken social media by storm. My explore pages have been repeatedly graced with reels highlighting the Japanese cuisine brunch menu, and this month I finally made the trek to Lakeview to try out this spot. I’ve been a longtime fan of Momotaro, which is only available for dinner, so when I heard of a restaurant offering something similar to a brunch/lunch version of the Momotaro menu, I couldn’t wait.
Though the trip to Lakeview was far, the neighborhood and atmosphere around Itoko was worth it. The restaurant lies on a quiet street down the road from commercial stores and coffee shops, which made for a nice post-brunch stroll. The interior was also very simple, clean, and elegant. Going into the restaurant we knew the hand rolls were a popular item, but we wanted to try brunch-specific items. We decided on the Steak and Eggs and Spicy Tuna Mazemen, and were recommended the Chicken Katsu Don.
The Steak and Eggs were a staple item and worth the money as it was a very hearty portion. The egg and steak were perfectly cooked and served over slightly charred kimchi fried rice (the charred flavor makes all the difference). We didn’t think it was anything too unique flavor-wise, but it was well-executed,filling,seemed to be a favorite item amongst the tables around us.
Next, we had the Spicy Tuna Mazemen, which is a Japanese breakfast item, consisting of a chili cold ramen dish with spicy raw tuna, avocado, bean sprouts, and tempura onions. The dish had a perfect combination of crunch and flavor (the tempura onions were a nice touch), and was very well balanced in terms of both flavor and texture. I especially liked the spice level as well, as it has just enough kick to make the dish interesting but not too much that it overwhelms the flavors of other ingredients. Again, the Mazemen came as a satisfying portion.
Lastly, we had the Chicken Katsu Don, which was recommended by our server as a popular brunch item. The chicken was perfectly crisp and topped with an amazing ginger mayo sauce. The pickled carrot-daikon slaw was well seasoned and balanced the chicken cutlet out, and the shishito peppers were a nice touch on top. The sushi rice at the bottom was great as well (not too moist or dry), and a friend who enjoyed this meal with me described it as “the best rice she’s ever had.” I think overall this ended up being our favorite item and the waitress nailed this recommendation.
Itoko is a great brunch destination if you are looking for practical and hearty portions. They also have brunch value sets such as a $35 Southport Set, which includes a 3-course menu and a $35 Teishoku Set, which includes an entree and a dessert. I would recommend looking up the menu for more inspiration of what to order if you’re thinking of heading there for brunch! Some other popular menu items that we were recommended include the Honey Butter Toast, Kabocha Pancake, and Continental Egg Soufflé. While the trek to Itoko in Lakeview may be far, the food is worth it (flavor-wise and portion-wise). The restaurant’s name “Itoko” comes from the word for cousin in Japanese, and I would definitely say Itoko is the greater value-back, more casual relative of Momotaro. Needless to say, I will for sure be back to Itoko to try out more items, be it brunch or dinner. In fact, I’m already planning my next happy hour excursion to try out the famed Ebi Tom Yum Temaki Hand rolls!