Review: Monarch & Lion

Caroline Zhao

In the equal parts touristy and residential neighborhood of Streeterville lies an ornate and elegant bronze placard pointing passersby to a comfortable escape from the bustling crowds spilling over at Michigan Avenue. Stepping into Monarch & Lion, I was immediately met by a dimly lit space with high ceilings lined with chandeliers, and walls covered with bookcases. Adding to the cozy vibe were plush leather chairs and crackling fireplaces, but the restaurant design also featured televisions behind the bar, cultivating a vibe that was more like a classic sports bar. Owned and operated by Rina and Mallish Mallick, the duo behind ROOH and Bar Goa, two upscale restaurants serving South Asian Cuisine in the West Loop and River North, Monarch & Lion attracted many to the venue, including myself, with high expectations for the restaurant’s success. In a slight deviation from the menus of ROOH and Bar Goa, Monarch & Lion is inspired by Indian immigrant cuisine in England, and the restaurant menu is more fusion-focused. The website describes some of its signature dishes, including “modern takes on the traditional fish and chips, artichoke bhaji, shepherd’s pie, and chicken tikka masala”. Although I had never had this particular fusion before, I couldn’t wait to dive in and see if the hype around Monarch & Lion was deserved.

We started out with a cocktail each, as our waitress raved about multiple drinks on the menu. Many of the drinks were aptly named for British cliches, and it was fun to read through the menu to see the creative spins on classic cocktails. There was a wide variety to order from, ranging from these dressed up cocktails to classic beers you would find at any British pub. The drink menu seemed to be longer than the food menu.

I went with the Honey Mustard Old Fashioned, while my friend ordered the Monarch & Lion gin and tonic. Although I was doubtful of what this rendition of an Old Fashioned entailed, I was pleasantly surprised. It was by far one of the best drinks I’ve had at a restaurant in Chicago. It was composed of Honey Mustard Infused Rye Whiskey, Angostura, and Black Walnut Bitters. The Gin and Tonic was similarly creative and complex, made up of Tanqueray No. 10 Gin, English Cucumber, Peppercorn, Rosemary, and Fever Tree Tonic. The flavors of these drinks certainly did not disappoint, leaving us with aftertastes we kept going back for.

For our appetizer, we went with a classic dish found at the Mallicks’ restaurants—the Chili Cheese Naan. Topped with Tillamook Cheddar, Thai Chili, and Mango Chutney, it definitely met my expectations. While it did not blow me away, it was a classic starter to the main courses, and a staple at a restaurant like Monarch & Lion. The flavors were delicious together—the cheddar was a delightful kick on top of the slightly spicy naan. I would have personally preferred more spice, but it was a great dish to start any meal off with.

We each ordered a main course for ourselves: the lamb shank and the chicken pot pie. I’m used to restaurants with many small plates, but both of our dishes were large and were sufficient for the night. It was a nice break from the plethora of tapas and sharing restaurants I usually frequent in Chicago. As expected, the flavors and spices in our dishes did not disappoint. Unfortunately, I was a little disappointed with the tenderness of the lamb shank. It wasn’t as melt-in-your-mouth as I would have hoped, but the curry was very delicious and made the dish worthwhile. It was creamy, flavorful, and full of memorable spices. I’m not sure it was the greatest value for the price, but according to the waitress it is one of their best dishes. The chicken pot pie, according to my friend, was a great deal for its price. She enjoyed it, although felt that it was on the heavier side. It was very rich in texture and filling. Still, it paired well with her gin and tonic.

I wish I could have tried more of the menu, but it seems like many of the dishes play it safe conceptually. After all, it’s hard to do fusion and please everyone. Combining traditionally British and Indian cuisine is tough, and I applaud Monarch & Lion for finding a happy medium with their dishes to appeal to all.

In conclusion, we didn’t enjoy Monarch & Lion as much as ROOH or Bar Goa, but were not wholly disappointed with the food and drinks. The cocktails were the highlight of the night, and everything else definitely met our expectations. This is not necessarily a must-go place, but I’d recommend you at least have a drink or two in the captivating ambience of the restaurant. It’s an exciting new restaurant concept, and I am excited to see how it evolves over the next couple of years in its Streeterville home.