Author and Photographer: Olivia Shanler

Québec City, Canada, the home of poutine, all things maple, and hearty food designed for cold weather, may not be considered a culinary paradise. However, tucked away in the Upper Town on Rue-Saint-Jean lies a tiny, hidden, refreshing oasis in the desert of restaurants geared towards tourists. Sinsemilla, named for the pollination process used to create potent marijuana, serves as an intimate and innovative establishment that puts a sophisticated spin on traditional “stoner” meals and Canadian comfort food. Opened in 2019, Sinsemilla is a recent player in the modern restaurant scene but maintains an air of mystery. The restaurant does not have a social media presence and is hard to track down on the internet. Their website does not even list the name of the chef! There is no other way to experience Sinsemilla except by trying it in person. Although it is far from Chicago, after just one meal there, I would gladly travel by plane just to experience Sensimilla again.

As I entered the restaurant, which I stumbled upon during a night out in Québec City, I was struck by its unique appearance. I had simply been hungry and wanted to eat dinner, so I located the closest restaurant. The restaurant is tiny but full of charm and character. Full of pro-pot art, photos of Bob Marley and Anthony Bourdain, hand-drawn art by customers, and the dulcet tones of Wu-Tang Clan, I felt excited for the meal to come. I was immediately greeted by the chef, who was also to be our server for the evening. He was exceedingly friendly, and I could tell he had a passion for food. He described the dishes on the menu with genuine love, but struck me as an amiable and unpretentious chef. I could tell that his restaurant made him happy and that it was a representation of his likes, dislikes, interests, and personality.

Beginnings

My party began with a trio of local oysters. Our first oyster had apple cream, yuzu granita, and a scoop of Osetra caviar. This dish was a textural delight, and the icy granita melted onto the oyster, enhancing its natural sweetness. The chef described the second oyster in the trio as a “Christmas oyster.” I had never eaten a Christmas oyster before, but I can safely say that it is my new favorite holiday tradition. A delicately whipped bone marrow accompanied pickled cranberries, and the tart cranberries cut through the fat of the bone marrow to accompany the luxurious oyster. We ended our trio of oysters with the most classic of the bunch, which had a house-made mignonette and a touch of gold leaf, or, as the chef put it, “pour le swag.” Although this appetizer was opulent, the juxtaposition of the dish with the personality of the restaurant felt, for lack of a better word, “cool.” I felt that I could experience the lush oysters with the chef as a guide. It would be impossible to be put off by the indulgent dishes, as they felt as though they were being served by a friend. The chef was kind enough to answer my questions about the process of preparing the oysters, too. I cannot wait to recreate his techniques to step up my own oyster game.

After a successful appetizer, we enjoyed the chef’s rendition of nachos, called “Nachos Bud” (I said the restaurant was pro-pot!), described simply with the words “polenta, chili, cheddar, tomatoes, and avocados.” In actuality, the dish exceeded this modest description (and, as I would come to find, so would the rest of the dishes). Featuring golden, crisp cubes of soft polenta, topped with a fragrant mixture of beef, tomatoes, and pepper, and swimming in a velvety cheese sauce, this dish went far and beyond the traditional expectations for nachos. It would be impossible to reconcile this dish with Tostitos microwaved with shredded Colby Jack. Even if I tried to put a sophisticated spin on nachos, I would never think to execute this dish.

Mains

Next, we enjoyed the Pearly Gates (featuring scallops, mussels, smoked herring corn, and potatoes). My expectations were once again exceedingly defied. A crispy puff pastry ring sat on top of a fluffy bed of thinly sliced potatoes. The seafood components of the dish had been turned into a lovely, creamy sauce that the chef poured over the mountainous dish, as well as its garnish of “coral” (made with a cornstarch and squid ink batter). I loved how this dish played with its ingredients, allowing them to create a whimsical presentation. Watching the dark sauce spill over the plate reminded me of an oil spill in the ocean. The sauce also carried a slightly salty flavor that reminded me of sea water. True to its name, this dish was heavenly.

Our next dish was the Hot Rod, which I was most excited for. I couldn’t wait to see what the chef would make of duck breast, waffles, peas, mushrooms, and foie gras. According to the chef, it was also one of his favorite dishes on the (albeit small but well-executed) menu. On the plate sat a bed of edamame beans and charred popcorn, of all things. Then, a magnificent construction of a duck breast and waffle, with even more duck mixed into the batter! The creation came topped with crispy enoki mushrooms and a positively filthy foie gras sauce. Indeed, all of the dishes I enjoyed are not the best for one’s health, but at least I can die happy. The crispy, savory waffle paired playfully with the duck breast and the aromatic foie gras sauce, creating a truly mouthwatering bite. The slight bitterness of the charred popcorn and the freshness of the herbs in the dish balanced out the heavy elements, but this was still an extremely full-flavored dish. Although I cannot complain about a waffle with duck in it, this dish blows chicken and waffles out of the water.

Desserts

After such a delightfully savory dinner, I felt ready for dessert. With just three desserts on the menu, I felt confident that each one would be unique and well-executed. We began with the Sour Cherry, which contained brownies, cherries, and mascarpone. This was essentially a Black Forest cake on steroids. The “brownies” were a fudgy round of dark chocolate cake that tasted almost like a mousse in its delicate texture. The sour cherries came in the form of a soft and tart sauce, yet their flavor was nostalgically similar to that of an elevated Maraschino. A delightfully peaked whipped cream helped to balance out the strong flavors of the dessert. While this was perhaps not the most innovative or unique dessert I have ever had, it was enjoyable.

The next dish brought back the extraordinary ideas that Sensimilla’s chef had created. The Apple & Cream dessert, which was a parsnip and foie gras crème brûlée with apples and oats, was truly unlike any other. The rich, creamy foie gras crème brûlée had a savory flavor to it, but its texture was otherworldly and reminiscent of bone marrow. The spears of braised apple and sweet, buttery, crunchy oat topping added sweetness to the dish and contrasted nicely with the savory crème brûlée. I have had savory crème brûlée before, but I have never seen someone have so much fun with flavors in that dish like the chef did.

Our final dish was a modern ode to a Canadian classic: Tim Hortons. Known for its coffee, donuts, and fast-food items, it is best described as “Canadian Dunkin.” The Tim Hortons menu features “Tim-bits,” which are tiny donut holes in a variety of flavors. Oftentimes, however, they can be dry, hard, and just a bit disappointing. Sensimilla breathed new life into this dish with the deceptively simple-named Powdered Donuts. These donut holes made with almond milk, maple, and sea buckthorn (a plant superfood with a tart, sweet, and fruity flavor) were a delightful twist and an elevated classic. The donuts had a delicate crispiness but a soft and fluffy interior. Soaked in a maple sauce and paired with scratch honeycomb candy and marshmallows (flavored with sea buckthorn) that melted in my mouth, this dish was a lovely end to a fantastic meal. This dish, to me, encapsulates the essence of Sensimilla: a restaurant that subverts classic, nostalgically trashy dishes and turns them into a revolutionary culinary experience. It is rare to see such mastery of flavor, texture, and concept as exists at Sensimilla. This was a dining experience like no other, and Sensimilla has become one of my personal favorites. And if I have not convinced you to cross the Canadian border simply to eat here, let the power of the shrine to Anthony Bourdain in the Sensimilla restroom compel you to experience Sensimilla for yourself.

Sinsemilla Review

Author and Photographer: Olivia Shanler

Beginnings

Mains

Desserts