Althea Review

Author and Photographer: Miranda Yuan

Veganism is a term that is largely associated in my mind with images of cavemen dashing across plain fields scavenging for scraps of leaves, of plates piled high with shades of green and orange and yellow, of a grumbling stomach and a feeling of uncomfortable dissatisfaction. Plus a reflexive eye roll.

Nevertheless, for Chicago Restaurant Week, my friend dragged me to Althea, one of the most prominent high-end vegan restaurants in the city.

We walked through the interiors of Saks Fifth Avenue and my mood was momentarily lifted by the welcoming floral scents of expensive perfumes and an efficient elevator ride to the 6th floor. Upon arrival, we passed some stands of Prada boots and Balenciaga heels, and saw the sign ‘Althea’ delicately tucked away in the corner embedded within a stylish flush of artificial green leaves. As we walked even closer, we uncovered an impeccably clean, organic setting with great big windows that retained an air of both earthiness and an airy-fairy elegance. Sparks of excitement were now kindled within me and served to dispel some of my hesitations.

The Restaurant week menu was short - just three choices at each of the three courses - but appealing enough for us to make quick, resolute decisions.

For appetizers, I chose the Kale Caesar salad as I was still in my protectionist mindset to start off safe with a simple, classic dish. However, in one forkful, I was exposed to a manifold of flavors with textures and tastes that left me in a state of yearning. There was an intense attention to detail. I could feel the care with which the kale and romaine were massaged, the evenness with which the cashew Caesar dressing was drizzled, and the precision with which the sourdough croutons were toasted. Such careful tending of ingredients was enhanced by the distribution of pepitas, mighty vine tomatoes, and diced parmesan pieces - a most curious combination - to concoct a dish that was wildly creative.

My friend ordered the Al Pastor Taco consisting of oyster mushrooms, avocado puree, and pineapple salsa. In addition to the fact that the taco had disappeared in seconds, she described her experience as “volcanic”.

As an avid lover of avocado toast, it was necessary for me to order the crab and avocado toast as my main. In any restaurant, with a little effort, one can successfully achieve a satisfyingly crunchy and chewy sourdough bread with well mashed avocados slathered atop. But what made the Althea avocado toast sing was not only the aesthetics of the pretty bejewellment of furikake cucumber intertwined with the generous mess of vegan crab strips, but also its functionality in that it produced a distinct texture and zestiness in which I reveled like a fly in a honey pot - Althea had again demonstrated a precise understanding of both sweetness and acidity that lifted the seemingly humble far dish beyond its origins.

On the other hand, if you are looking for a cuddle in a bowl, get the Almond Udon. My friend had yet another “explosive” experience as she slurped up plump and slippery udon noodles with spoonfuls of rich and creamy and almondy broth armed with tangy tofu pieces and bok choy leaves, accompanied by a dash of Togarashi and Mizuna. I had a little spoonful and it was a bit like eating a bowl of bonfire.

Chocolate Truffle Slice and Lemon Berry Cheesecake

Finally, the Chocolate Truffle Slice was a head turning beauty. Its chocolate upper-half was satin-like, and slid down my throat with immense ease. Its lower-half consisted of a base that was gloriously gooey, but crunchy, with roasted hazelnut chunks intermingled with subtle hints of dried cherry and bourbon. Oh what a forceful combination it was! I was swept away entirely.

With all these descriptions, it is not difficult for one to imagine the dramatic shift in my neuronal associations with the term ‘veganism’ and the accompanying shift in my perspectives. I had learnt that our meals do not always need to have a pulse for it to taste good. Vegan restaurants should not suffer the prejudices that I had once held, because they reflect pioneering imaginations and profound willingness that contribute to a new dining horizon tailored to modern tastes. Such innovation requires cleverness, audaciousness, and verve, all of which Althea displayed in abundance.