Author: Natalia Potente

Photographer: Fareen Dhuka

We turned off a wintry Chicago sidewalk and eagerly escaped into Apolonia’s warm and well-lit interior. It was my first time at Apolonia, a Mediterranean restaurant in the South Loop, and as the friendly hostess showed us to our table, I immediately noticed the simple, earthy atmosphere. Heavy white curtains framed the floor-to-ceiling windows that peered out onto S Michigan Ave, where we had stood, shivering, moments before. The wooden tables, gray stone floor, and leather booths completed the natural aesthetic. Coupled with the quiet hum of clinking cutlery and conversations, the aesthetic embodied my expectations of a traditional, upscale Mediterranean restaurant. What caught me off guard, however, were the industrial bar and fully visible stainless steel kitchen in the back of the restaurant. These features added a modern twist to Apolonia’s understated decor. After reflecting on our dining experience, the same held true for the food. Like the ambiance, the menu largely catered to traditional tastes, but was peppered with unexpected creative inspiration.

Mains

The pastas were simple and well-executed. We opted for the Braised Lamb Bucatini and the Calamarata Pasta. The lamb was so tender that it melted in my mouth like butter. It paired perfectly with the tangy, slightly spicy tomato sauce that liberally coated the al dente bucatini. The calamarata was fresh and light, and not at all chewy- the perfect tribute to the fresh seafood of Apolonia’s coastal Mediterranean inspiration. The Angus Flat Iron Steak delivered a similarly solid performance. It was juicy, and an herby chimichurri sauce brightened up the dish. The pastas and steaks were very satisfying, and reminded me that classics are classics for a reason.

Looking back on my Apolonia experience, it was the innovative dishes that stand out. The Wild Caught Swordfish arrived on a bed of tapioca pearls, celery stem, and celery root. While the hefty amount of tapioca served with the entree may not be for the faint of heart, its smooth and chewy texture and neutral flavor contrasted with the tender, heavily seasoned swordfish to create a well-balanced plate. Eaten together, the tapioca and swordfish avoided any potential complaints of dining monotony.

Our group was insistent on getting two orders of the Black Truffle Puff Bread, and while I was hesitant at first, it turned out we probably could have eaten three or four. I found out later that this appetizer is a “viral Instagram dish,” according to NBC Chicago, and now I know why.

Though the physics of this process are still a mystery to me, the dough had been flash-fried to expand into something like a balloon shape. I had the honor of cutting into it, and while the cavernous interior quickly collapsed, the airyness of the bread itself remained strong until the very last bite. A heap of crispy herbs, a generous dose of shaved truffle and truffle oil, and grated parmesan cheese that had partially melted into the flakey bread delivered the decadent flavors that earned this dish the title of group favorite.

Dessert

For dessert, we ordered the Salted Caramel Gelato, which was served over rich, dark chocolate crumbles that offered a welcome bitter contrast to the salty and sweet caramel flavor. We also took the waiter’s recommendation to order “the Purple Lavender.” Hiding under the deceptively standard-looking layer of cinnamon-dusted whipped cream were layers of pomegranate and butterfly pea flower tea mousse. Combined with a thicker, bolder dark chocolate pudding at the bottom of the bowl, these fruity, delicate flavors added the perfect whimsical end to the meal.

Salted Caramel Gelato + The Purple Lavender

Overall, whether you are on the hunt for something classic and comforting or innovative, Apolonia has you covered. Also, NBC has at least one thing right- you need to order the black truffle puff bread.

Apolonia Review

Author: Natalia Potente

Photographer: Fareen Dhuka

Mains

Dessert