Author and Photographer: Olivia Shanler

UChicago Bite reviewed Elske, a trendy yet sophisticated and subtle Scandinavian bistro located in the West Loop, in May 2022, but I decided to investigate the restaurant’s autumn 2022 menu. The restaurant hosts an affordable tasting menu and several à la carte options (which we opted to try). The head chefs, David and Anna Posey, who happen to be a married couple, constantly change Elske’s menu to keep it as fresh and modern as possible, in the spirit of its Scandinavian roots. The name of the restaurant, which translates to “love,” calls back to both the relationship between the head chefs and chef David Posey’s Scandinavian heritage. Not only does Elske stand as a symbol of the love between the chefs and the love for their heritage, it also stands as a monument to the chef’s love for the dining experience. After this meal, I intend to return to Elske to feel the love between Scandinavian tradition and modern fine dining.

Appetizers

The meal, which my party enjoyed outdoors, on Elsie’s elegant yet simple patio space, began with an appetizer of Publican Quality Oat Porridge Sourdough with cultured koji butter. Already, I needed to conduct a Google search on “koji butter,” which I learned is a strain of fungus that is fermented with rice. Koji is commonly used in alcoholic beverages and condiments like miso and shoyu, but it was used excellently in the butter, creating a savory and tangy experience. Immediately, the chefs set the tone for the meal. The sourdough was perfectly executed, both flavorful and soft with a crusty exterior. The butter, which came topped with a flaky salt, paired perfectly with the sourdough. Despite its simplicity, the appetizer was subtly sophisticated; the oats in the sourdough and the complexity of the koji butter elevated the dish. The chefs made it known that this meal was going to be unlike any other. In true Scandinavian tradition, this appetizer was simple, sophisticated, and expertly crafted. I am of the opinion that a restaurant is only as good as its most basic dish. Given the quality of this appetizer, I had high expectations for the rest of the meal, which continued with a round of drinks, including a stunning botanical gin and tonic as well as refreshing rosemary mocktails.

Mains

Next in our à la carte adventure was the Smoked Eel with marinated cucumber, spinach, and nasturtium (an edible flower, according to Google). The eel was light and sweet and so delicate that it fell apart when I picked it up. This dish was a study in texture, and the combination of the crunchy marinated cucumber and soft eel was a delight to experience. The presentation of the dish was precise and elegant, and I almost did not want to disrupt the symmetrical plating. However, I did anyway because I quickly learned that anything the Elske chefs created, I wanted to taste and experience.

The next dish was one of our favorites: Charred Leeks Vinaigrette with clothbound cheddar, toasted oats (making another appearance), and black olives. This was the perfect autumnal dish. Compared to the eel dish we enjoyed earlier, this plate was decadent and rich but not overpowering. The saltiness of the cheddar enveloped the leeks, yet their lightly charred and bitter flavor shone through and complemented the saltiness of the cheddar. Meanwhile, the subtle acidity of the dried black olives added bursts of salty flavor to the dish. It would not be an exaggeration to say that I want to bathe in the cheddar sauce. I can safely say that I have never had anything like this dish, but a month later, I am still thinking about it.

The next dish was the Sunchoke Tortellini with matsutakes (rare mushrooms mainly found in pine, fir, and hemlock forests at high elevations), pancetta, and juniper. This dish was visually stunning, topped with matsutake sliced so thinly, I could almost see through it. The tortellini was delicate and savory, with a stunning and velvety sauce. Each tortellini packed a delightful punch of flavor, and I kept going back for more.

The next dishes came out together. We enjoyed a perfectly crispy Tempura Skate Wing with parsley root, brown butter, and lemon. I enjoyed the contrast of the crispy tempura batter with the soft and succulent skate meat. The brown butter added a nutty richness to the dish and paired nicely with the parsley root, which I had never eaten before. We also sampled Annatto Zucca (a bright orange, pumpkin-shaped pasta) with roasted squash, egg yolk, and pecorino. The thin, crispy squash that topped the dish added a pleasing crunch to the pasta, along with the pepitas. This was a perfectly executed autumnal pasta dish.

The final dish, a Celeriac “Risotto” with apple, candied hazelnuts, and black truffle, struck me as one of the most unique dishes of the meal. The celeriac root, which was riced and cooked like a risotto, formed a rich and creamy base for the broth that accompanied the dish. The julienned green apple, celery leaves, and hazelnuts each added a unique texture that combined for the ultimate crunch in the dish. The subtle sweetness of the hazelnuts and apple paired well with the earthy truffle and savory broth. This dish rounded out a perfect round of appetizers and entrées.

Desserts

Now, onto desserts! Elske’s menu boasts 4 desserts, each unique and elegant. We ordered the Lemon Myrtle Pot de Crème with melon, honeydew sorbet, and pine, which had a delicious melon flavor and a subtle sharpness from the pine. This dessert was very soft in texture, with the crème and the fruit working together to create a rich yet light experience. We also sampled the Meringue with parsnip-coconut cream, pear, and cardamom. I enjoyed cracking the meringue shell, and the classic combination of pear and cardamom reached new heights when eaten with the earthy parsnip-coconut cream.

However, out of all the desserts, I preferred the Sunflower Seed Parfait with sour honey, licorice, and bee pollen. The nutty flavor of the sunflower seed took on a more complex profile when paired with the licorice and sour honey. The creamy texture of the dessert was positively addictive, as was the fine-grained crumble served on top. I had never considered sunflower seeds to be an ingredient used in dessert, but Elske opened my eyes to its amazing qualities. I am not ashamed to admit that I scraped the parfait clean off its plate with my spoon.

The dark chocolate ice cream with øllebrød and hazelnut was also delicious. The ice cream tasted like eating straight Nutella, but surprisingly, the flavor became much lighter. I couldn’t eat copious amounts of Nutella, but I could eat this ice cream for days. The øllebrød and hazelnut added an interesting texture to the ice cream. Personally, I have often been let down by desserts at restaurants. I have felt that some chefs leave dessert as an afterthought, but the chefs at Elske did exactly the opposite. They approached the desserts with the same precision and technique as the rest of the meal. Dessert felt like a natural continuation of the meal that perfectly wrapped up the dining experience!

Elske Fall 2022 Review

Author and Photographer: Olivia Shanler

Appetizers

Mains

Desserts