Spending an Afternoon in Chicago’s “Little India”

Author and Photographer: Krishna Raghavan

Chicago’s “Little India” neighborhood is a mile-long stretch of Devon Ave on the city’s North Side, lined with Indian, Pakistani, Nepali, and Bengali eateries, souvenir shops, and textile stores. Known colloquially as “Devon Ave” or “Devon,” this neighborhood is regarded as a “must-see” destination of the city for many diasporic South Asians like myself. Visually, the neighborhood does not look like a typical Chicago neighborhood. The signage, architecture, storefronts, and scents can make a visitor feel like they have been transported to South Asia. After having experienced Devon a few times, I firmly believe that the neighborhood is best experienced through its food. In this post, my friend and I take you with us on a detailed (but by no means exhaustive) food tour of the neighborhood.

Stop 1: Nepal House

Our first stop is Nepal House. Along with its sister restaurant chain, Chicago Curry House, Nepal House is a staple of Chicago’s South Asian culinary scene, with another location in the South Loop. Nepal House offers a wide assortment of Nepali and Indian appetizers, entrees, and desserts. You can find typical South Asian foods such as samosas, paneer, tikka masala, and tandoori-style dishes. What makes Nepal House unique, however, is their offering of rarer Nepali dishes such as momos, kauli, and khukura. I also love the atmosphere of the restaurant. While the dining experience feels sophisticated – each table is adorned with a fresh white tablecloth and embroidered seating – the staff are welcoming, casual, and treat you like family. Nepal House also provides an extremely consistent product that has made me a fan during my time in Chicago. Dishes are always served within 15 minutes of each other and are equally delicious upon every visit to the restaurant.

My friend and I began by ordering a Mango Lassi and a diet coke, respectively. We ordered two appetizers to share, Chili Paneer and an order of Fried Vegetable Momos. The chili paneer is delicious. The paneer is fried to the perfect crisp with assorted bell peppers and onions in a Szechuan-style sauce that is both spicy and tangy. This dish is a popular Indo-Chinese appetizer. In my opinion, Nepal House provides the best chili paneer in the city. The momos are also a must try! Nepal House offers both steamed and fried momos, and we opted for the fried. The momos were beautiful in appearance, and their presentation was beautiful as well, with cilantro garnishes across the plate. Their pleasantly crisp outside contrasted with their soft inside, filled with Nepali-spiced vegetables, and paired very well with the dipping sauce. It is hard to locate this classic Nepali dish in Chicago, but count on Devon Ave to be there.

Mango Lassi + Diet Coke

Chili Paneer

Fried Vegetable Momos

For a main course, I ordered the Mutter Paneer and my friend ordered the Lamb Tikka Masala. Each curry entree was served with a side of rice, and we ordered naan as well. We enjoyed each of our dishes. Having tried the Chili Paneer, an appetizer, and the Mutter Paneer, an entree, I concluded that the chefs at Nepal House are experts in paneer preparation versatility. Both the soft, marinated paneer of the Mutter Paneer and the crispier fried version of the Chili Paneer were exquisite. My friend was a fan of the Lamb Tikka Masala and noted that the masala base was delicious. We agreed that Nepal House’s naan is among the best we have ever tasted. It was fluffy and baked to perfection, and it provided a wonderful neutral base and texture to pair with the tang of the curry dishes.

Mutter Paneer + Lamb Tikka Masala

Naan

Stop 2: Sukhadia’s Sweets and Snacks

After a delicious lunch, we went across the street to Sukhadia’s Sweets and Snacks. Sukhadia’s has been a Devon Ave staple since the 90s. My favorite part of this experience was the casual nature of the store; Sukhadia’s, though now a popular establishment, is a family-owned business, and this was evident in its ambience. As soon as we entered, someone was excited to work one-on-one with us and tell us about the dessert offerings while we browsed. The Gulab Jamun and Jalebi are must-try sweets, but with so many options, it is hard to pick one you will not love. We tried both the gulab jamun and jalebi, and both were made to perfection. The highlight of the gulab jamun was the delicious sweet syrup. In addition to shelves of freshly prepared sweets, the store offers a multitude of savory snacks. Do not miss the fridge, which contains South Asian carbonated favorites such as Limca and Thumbs Up, which are enjoyed to the same extent that Sprite and Mountain Dew are in the U.S.

Stop 3: Patel Brothers

Before we left the neighborhood, we wanted to stop at Patel Brothers to pick up a few goodies to take back to Hyde Park. Visiting Patel Brothers is the perfect way to pay respects to the history of the neighborhood and the greater South Asian diaspora. Patel Brothers, now a popular nationwide Indian grocery chain, was founded by Mafat and Tulsi Patel almost 50 years ago, right here on Devon Ave! Visiting the original store location on Devon is a special occasion for many, as the store has become synonymous with the Indian American experience for many across the nation, including myself. Patel Brothers sells a wide variety of imported Indian goods and snacks, from the popular Maggi noodles to the Shan spice packs found in many South Asian kitchens today. My friend and I picked up a couple of bottled lassis to conclude our afternoon in the area. The Gopi mango lassi was excellent and provided a yogurt tart flavor to counter the sweetness of the mango, and the rose lassi was also good, with a sweet taste and a rose scent that was a nice complement to the flavor.

Lassi

Conclusion

Visiting Devon Ave is a truly unforgettable experience, both through its food and history. It features many of the city’s most famous South Asian restaurants and eateries, and it is possible to acquire their products that are otherwise only available abroad. The neighborhood also embodies the multiethnic and interfaith spirit of the South Asian community and is home to various cultural and religious centers. Devon feels like its own little world but is an important and beloved part of the history and culture of the city of Chicago.