Steingold's Deli Review

Author and Photographer: Sarah Ginsburg

Steingold’s Deli is located about an hour north of Hyde Park in the Lakeview neighborhood of Chicago. Given the deeply disappointing bagel selection in my home city of San Francisco, I have been eager to try some authentic Jewish Deli food since I’ve moved here. (You would think that a Jew in New York must have told a Jew in San Francisco how to make a good bagel by now, but sadly, this is not the case.) And as the sacrilegious Jew that I am, I have been on the hunt for delis that take a more modern approach to Jewish cooking. In simpler terms, serve me anything that’s not kosher.

Although Steingold’s roots clearly lay in the classic delis of the Lower-East side of New York, the restaurant does not embody only traditional Jewish cuisine. The menu options range from Latke Tots to a plain bagel with cream cheese and lox. If I came here with my devoutly religious grandfather, we could both find menu items we wanted, which is saying a lot. Uniquely, the menu also incorporated subtle Korean influence, in honor of owner Aaron Steingold’s Korean sister-in-law. Their signature Sister-in-Law sandwich is a classic smoked pastrami sandwich with fresh kimchi. My trip to Steingold’s was the first time I’ve encountered Jewish-Korean fusion, but I left with few complaints.

Unfortunately, the deli was not open for indoor seating, so I could not capture its full ambiance. However, the storefront was minimalistic and traditional; it reminded me of a classic, family-owned Jewish deli. The store itself probably wouldn’t capture my attention if I were walking down the street, but the food spoke for itself.

Upon arrival, my friends and I were hungry. We ordered a mix of traditional and modern menu items:

- The Grandma Rachel signature sandwich

- The bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich

- The BLT sandwich with a fried-egg add-on

- A sesame bagel with cream cheese, kimchi, and cucumber

- A pumpkin spice bagel with butter

- A cold brew coffee with oat milk

The Bagels:

Whether ordered on their own or used as the bread of a sandwich, the bagels at Steingold’s were the star of the show. It was clear they had been boiled prior to baking, which gave them a thin, crackly crust that gave way to its dense, chewy interior. The bagels were generously coated with sesame seeds prior to baking, which added an extra depth of texture and flavor.

I ordered my bagel with cream cheese, cucumber and Steingold’s signature kimchi. Although I wish it was sliced thinner, the kimchi added a delicious pop of acid that reminded me of the pickled onions that are a common topping on traditional deli bagels. We also ordered a seasonal pumpkin spice bagel, which I would not do again. I should have listened to my primal instinct to avoid sweet bagels; it was far too sweet, and the cinnamon sugar coating overpowered the bagel’s starchy, savory flavor.

The Grandma Rachel:

Sandwiches, clockwise from top left: BLT, Grandma Rachel, Kimchi Bagel

The Grandma Rachel is their signature sandwich on challah, filled with Snake Farms Wagyu pastrami, pickled red cabbage, and tangy sauerkraut. The meat itself was slow smoked, and smothered in a barbeque spice blend. The challah was the perfect sponge for the meat’s peppery juices, and the pickled sauerkraut added a necessary pop of acidity and tang. I would recommend this sandwich to anyone looking for a filling, hearty option.

BLT:

Ironically, Steingolds’ really nailed their bacon, and I was all for it. It was ultra-thick and crispy, and generously piled on the sandwich as a delicious compliment to the buttery toasted rye and fresh lettuce and tomato. This BLT was nothing to complain about, and if you’re looking to keep things traditional, this BLT is for you.

I came to Steingold’s with high expectations. I was fed up with the mediocrity of San Francisco bagels, and could only secretly enjoy the dining hall’s blueberry bagels for so long before my Jewish relatives exiled me from the family. Apart from the crime of the pumpkin spice bagel, I was happy with my experience, and would make the commute to return. While clearly tied to the roots of classic Jewish delis, Steingold’s Korean influence sets it apart from its counterparts. After all, before visiting Steingold’s Deli, I did not actively seek out kimchi on my bagel, and now, I do. In my mind, this means Steingold’s has done its job.