Perilla Review

Author: Grace Hu

Nestled in West Loop amongst a block of industrial red brick buildings, Perilla takes its customers along a culinary adventure that features executive chef Andrew Lim’s modern approach to traditional Korean dishes. The decor of the restaurant is simple yet sleek, with large windows connecting the buzzing city streets to the cozy, dim-lit indoors. Though Perilla is known for its Korean barbecue, we opted to try their more traditional dishes instead during our first visit. The dishes we tried were as follows:

Roasted broccoli

Smothered in garlic butter with Calabrian chilis and fried shallots, the broccoli in this dish was easily the best I have ever eaten. Each floret was perfectly blistered and crunchy, and the addition of the sauce with the crispy elements added flavor while letting the freshness of the vegetables shine. 

Stir-fried glass noodles

These glass noodles were stir-fried with an assortment of vegetables including carrots, peppers, and onion then topped with a generous bunch of scallions and white sesame seeds. The sweet potato starch noodles were chewy and springy, and hints of sesame oil could also be tasted in the dish, but the overall taste profile of the dish was just a little flat. Though certainly a faithful portrayal of the traditional Japchae, I expected a more special (if not more creative) take from Chef Lim. 

Korean fried chicken

This traditional spicy and sweet Korean fried chicken was one of my favorite dishes from the night. Pieces of chicken were soaked in a spicy and sweet sauce while remaining crispy in every bite--I was truly impressed by the kitchen’s ability to preserve the integrity of the dish’s texture without sacrificing any flavor. The gochujang flavor especially shone through and gave the otherwise easily monotone sauce a delightful kick. The fried chicken was also accompanied with a house ranch sauce and traditional pickled radishes; the combination was an unusual yet surprisingly harmonious addition, and it reflected Perilla’s theme of Korean American fusion.

Traditional Korean pancakes with soy vinaigrette

The texture of these pancakes was incredible. The edges were golden brown and crunchy, while the center remained glutinous and soft. The pieces of scallion after being deep fried also offered punches of flavor to each bite, especially when dipped in the soy vinaigrette. 

Jook

Although I knew it was porridge, I was still taken aback by the striking similarities between this dish and risotto. I could tell from the pile of roasted mushrooms, walnuts, and sprinkled chives that this was not the typical humble white porridge that my grandma makes me when I am sick. The dish was a star on its own, and it did not need the usual spread of side dishes to supply its flavor. Soaked in a buttery broth, each individual grain of rice was plump with flavor and was unified with the other components of the dish by a central parmesan flavor. Kudos to Chef Lim for a creative take on an Asian comfort food classic!

Cherry tomatoes with corn, basil, and ricotta

We managed to catch the tail of Perilla’s summer menu that offered this light cold plate highlighting the amazing quality of summer vegetables and fruits. The cherry tomatoes were juicy, and the corn sweet. There was nothing wrong with the dish, but I just do not understand how this dish matches the Korean theme of the restaurant. 

Overall, the menu was creative, and the execution of each dish was great. The pricing is a bit higher than other Korean restaurants downtown, but it makes sense as it is a more upscale dining experience than traditional Asian comfort food places. If you find yourself wanting a special Saturday night treat downtown with friends, Perilla is the way to go.