An Underwhelming Michelin Star Experience in France
Author & Photographer: Melanie Wang
Image from: http://www.lemillenaire.com/
As a food fanatic, I have lived through an equal share of disappointments for every out-of-body culinary experience that I have been graced with. Jetting off to France for three weeks, I anticipated more of the same. What I didn’t expect was for one of the letdowns to be at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Maybe I became jaded by the modestly-priced brasseries, or like countless others, overhyped the Michelin star. Either way, I was disappointed by Le Millénaire. Disclaimer: I didn’t even have to pay for this meal and still didn’t love it. Tucked away on a small street in Reims, the unofficial capital of France’s Champagne region—the home of Veuve Clicquot, Dom Pérignon, and other Grand Cru labels—Le Millénaire is a contemporary restaurant boasting creative modern cuisine.
The entrance and decor are on par with the contemporary and modern vibes that the restaurant markets itself on; crisp, white linens are artfully adorned with delicately thin glasses, exquisite gold show plates (for display only, and not to be eaten on), and singular bright orange flowers that provide a pop of color. All together, the decor provides an air of sophistication that is emphasized by the sign directly outside the entrance, boasting the restaurant’s Michelin-star status, as of 2019. Stepping foot inside this crisp and clean restaurant immediately jolts the taste buds; my heart rate kicked up a notch while my mouth and stomach simultaneously prepared themselves for the anticipated culinary euphoria.
Two hours and five courses later, I was left both impressed and underwhelmed. The presentation, fitting for a prestigious restaurant that prided itself on its exquisite modern decor, lived up to my expectations. Each dish was plated beautifully and catered to the aesthetic of the restaurant—and to my Instagram story. After all, half of the fine dining experience is the visual pleasure derived from the meal, and here, Le Millénaire did not disappoint. The soft white lighting cast a pleasant light on each carefully plated course, from the edible flower garnishes to the meticulous scattering of spices.
As for the food itself, we indulged in: avocado panna cotta with tomato, lobster, and olive oil; guinea fowl sausage with Christmas tree reduction, accompanied by potatoes and roasted pear; chocolate crisps with Bailey’s cream and pecan ice cream; and finally, an assortment of chocolate, pistachio, and fruit pastries. These dishes, for the most part, were nothing to write home about. While they comprised a solid meal, nothing left a strong impression on me or my companions; we expected more dazzling deliciousness from a Michelin-starred restaurant, particularly in its first year. The most complex flavors emerged from the panna cotta, where the infusion of herbs in the puréed avocado, coupled with the lobster, tomato, and salted whipped cream led my tongue on an almost-confusing journey of flavors; in one bite, it went from bitter to salty to sweet to earthy and back.
I won’t even bother recommending that you go—the odds that you find yourself in Reims seems rather unlikely, and if you do, I’m sure you can find somewhere better to eat. The Michelin system is highly disputed, and by no means a comprehensive collection of the best restaurants. Sure, I enjoyed myself enough, but Le Millénaire did not meet my expectations. I’ll leave you with this: there are so many incredible restaurants all over the world, and there’s absolutely no need to fiend for specific restaurants with certain status. Of course, some Michelin-starred restaurants are worth their price, but more often than not, you’ll find great food on the streets with a few friends by your side. 4 am streetside kebabs, anyone?